So I’ve been down this rabbit hole lately because honestly, large landscape photography is having such a moment right now and I keep getting questions about how to actually do this right. Like, not just slapping any oversized print on your wall and hoping it works.
The Size Thing Everyone Gets Wrong
Okay first thing – people always go too small. I cannot stress this enough. When you’re looking at landscape photography for a big wall, you’re thinking maybe 40×60 inches will be huge, right? But then it arrives and it’s just… floating there looking lost. I learned this the hard way in my own living room and my cat literally knocked over the frame because I had it propped against the wall for like three weeks trying to figure out why it felt wrong.
Here’s what actually works: measure your wall space and then think about taking up roughly 60-75% of that width. So if you have an 8-foot wall section, you’re looking at something in the 60-72 inch range width-wise. Sounds insane until you see it in place and then everything clicks.
The Math I Actually Use
I keep this note in my phone because I reference it constantly:
- Above a sofa: go 2/3 the width of the sofa
- Feature wall: aim for 60-75% wall width
- Bedroom: 40-60 inches works if it’s over a bed or dresser
- Dining room: you can go HUGE because people aren’t sitting right next to it
Print Quality Is Where Everyone Wants to Cheap Out
Look, I get it. A 60×40 museum-quality print costs like $400-800 depending on where you go. But here’s the thing – at that size, you can literally see every single quality issue. Every. Single. One.
I tested this last month because a client was being super budget-conscious and I wanted to give them options. Ordered the same landscape image from three different places: a budget online printer, a mid-range specialty shop, and then a professional fine art printer. The budget one looked okay in photos but in person? The blues were muddy, the detail in the shadows was just… gone, and it had this weird texture that caught light wrong.
What Actually Matters in Print Quality
The resolution thing is non-negotiable. You need at minimum 150 DPI at the final print size, but honestly 200-300 DPI is where it starts looking really good. Most stock photo sites will tell you the max print size – actually listen to them. I’ve tried pushing it and you just get soft, blurry landscapes that look like you’re viewing them through a dirty window.
Paper choice is gonna sound pretentious but stick with me. For landscapes specifically:
- Metallic paper makes water and skies absolutely pop – I used this for a Lake Tahoe print and the water looks like you could dive into it
- Matte fine art paper is your go-to for forests and mountains, gives that gallery feel
- Lustre is the middle ground, works for most things
- Glossy is… honestly I’d skip it for wall art this size unless you have zero windows in the room
Mounting Options That Don’t Suck
This is where I see people give up and just lean their expensive print against a wall for six months. Been there, done that, have the dust marks to prove it.
Canvas wraps are super popular right now and I have mixed feelings? They’re easy because you just hang them like a painting, no frame needed. But for landscape photography, you lose some of that crispness. The texture of canvas can fight with the photographic detail. I use them for more impressionistic landscapes or when someone wants that modern gallery wrap look.
The Acrylic Mount Situation
Okay so funny story, I discovered acrylic mounting kind of by accident when I was at a gallery opening (where I was mostly there for the free wine, let’s be honest). But these prints were STUNNING. The acrylic adds this depth and the colors just… intensify somehow?
It’s expensive though. Like, really expensive. You’re looking at $600-1200 for a large landscape print on acrylic. But for a feature wall or a space where you want serious impact, it’s unmatched. The image is printed on a substrate and then mounted behind clear acrylic, sometimes with a metal frame system on the back.
Metal prints are another option I’ve been experimenting with lately. The image is infused directly onto aluminum and it creates this luminous quality that’s perfect for landscapes with big skies or water. More durable than paper prints too, which matters if you’re hanging in a high-humidity area or somewhere with a lot of light.
Framing Without Going Broke
Custom framing a 60×40 print can cost as much as the print itself, which is just… I mean, it’s a lot. Here’s what I actually do:
Order standard sizes when possible. 40×60, 30×40, 24×36 – these are common enough that you can find ready-made frames that don’t cost your entire paycheck. Yeah, you might have to compromise slightly on your perfect composition, but the money you save is significant.
The IKEA Hack That Actually Works
Wait I forgot to mention – IKEA’s RIBBA frames go up to 24×35 inches which is big but not huge. However, their BJÖRKSTA series comes in 55×39 inches and I’ve used them multiple times. They’re like $100 with the print (though use your own print, their stock images are hit or miss). The frame is basic but clean, and you can always upgrade the matting or add a floating frame effect.
For anything larger, I go to Frame Destination or American Frame online. They do custom sizes but their prices are reasonable, and you can order just the frame components if you’re comfortable assembling yourself.
What Landscapes Actually Work Large
Not every landscape photo scales up well, and this is something I wish someone had told me earlier. Super busy compositions get overwhelming at 60 inches wide. You want something with:
- A clear focal point or leading line
- Good negative space – sky, water, fog, whatever
- Strong composition that holds up when you’re standing close AND far away
- Colors that work with your space obviously but also aren’t so saturated they become exhausting
I have this print of the Oregon coast in my office – lots of sky, some dramatic rocks, moody blue-gray tones. It’s 50×33 and it works because there’s breathing room in the composition. Compare that to this super detailed forest scene I almost bought that would’ve been just chaos on the wall.
Specific Subjects That Scale Well
From my experience testing this stuff:
Seascapes and ocean views are probably the easiest to work with large. The horizon line creates natural balance, and water photographs beautifully at any size. Plus they work in so many different spaces.
Mountain ranges are dramatic as hell when they’re huge. I did a 72-inch wide Tetons print for a client’s great room and people literally gasp when they walk in. The scale of the mountains translates perfectly to large prints.
Minimalist landscapes – think Iceland, sand dunes, foggy fields – these are having a moment and they work because the simplicity doesn’t get overwhelming at large sizes. My client canceled last week so I spent an hour comparing different Iceland landscape options and the minimal ones just hit different.
Aerial landscapes are interesting because the perspective shift makes them work even better large. Looking down at coastlines, rivers, fields – the patterns become almost abstract.
Color Considerations You Can’t Ignore
This is gonna sound weird but I learned this from styling sets for photo shoots – your landscape colors need to actually work with your room, not just “look pretty.”
I see people choose landscapes based purely on where they want to travel or where they’ve been, which fine, but then they end up with this super saturated orange-red desert sunset in a room with cool gray walls and blue furniture and it just fights everything.
What actually works: pull 2-3 colors from your existing space and find landscapes that feature those. Or go the opposite route and choose something so neutral it becomes a grounding element. Black and white landscapes are underrated for this reason – they work literally everywhere.
Where to Actually Buy These Prints
I’ve tried so many sources at this point. Here’s my honest take:
Stock photo sites like Shutterstock or Adobe Stock have huge selections and you can filter by size/resolution. The quality varies wildly though. I only use these when I need something specific and can’t find it elsewhere. Make sure you’re buying the highest resolution available and check the licensing for large prints.
Photography marketplaces like 500px, SmugMug, or even Etsy have actual photographers selling prints. The quality is generally better because these are people who care about how their work is printed. Prices range wildly – I’ve found gorgeous large format landscape prints on Etsy for $200-300 printed on good paper.
Fine art photography galleries online – sites like Saatchi Art or Artsy if you want limited editions or original work. You’re paying more but the quality and uniqueness is there. I source from these when clients have bigger budgets and want something special.
Direct from photographers is my favorite route when possible. Find landscape photographers whose work you love on Instagram, check if they sell prints. You’re supporting artists directly and can often request custom sizes or specific printing options.
The Installation Part Nobody Talks About
Okay so you’ve spent $500-1000 on this gorgeous print and frame and now you gotta actually hang it without destroying your wall or the art. These things are HEAVY. A 60×40 framed print can easily weigh 40-50 pounds.
You need proper hanging hardware. Not the little wire and nail that comes with cheap frames. I’m talking:
- Heavy duty picture hanging hooks rated for the actual weight
- Wall anchors if you’re not hitting studs
- Two hanging points for anything over 30 inches wide, not just one centered hook
- A level because eyeballing it never works, trust me
Height matters too – the center of your print should be at eye level, which is roughly 57-60 inches from the floor. But adjust based on your ceiling height and furniture. Above a sofa, leave 6-8 inches between the furniture and the bottom of the frame.
Lighting Makes or Breaks It
I cannot stress this enough – you can have the most gorgeous landscape print in the world but if the lighting is wrong, it just disappears or worse, creates glare.
Natural light is tricky because it changes throughout the day. I avoid hanging large prints in direct sunlight because UV damage is real and your colors will fade. But indirect natural light? Perfect. It makes the colors come alive.
For artificial lighting, I usually add picture lights or track lighting angled at about 30 degrees. LED strips behind the frame can create a cool floating effect but that’s more of a modern look, doesn’t work for traditional spaces.
Oh and another thing – if you have recessed lighting, make sure it’s not creating hot spots or glare on the glass/acrylic. I’ve had to relocate prints because of this more times than I’d like to admit.
The Maintenance Nobody Mentions
Dust. So much dust. Large prints collect it like crazy. I use a microfiber cloth and just gently wipe the glass or acrylic monthly. For canvas, use a soft brush attachment on your vacuum on the lowest setting.
If you’re in a humid climate, watch for moisture between the glass and print. I’ve seen mold develop and it’s heartbreaking. Make sure there’s proper ventilation and consider using a dehumidifier in really humid spaces.
The investment in a large landscape print is significant but when it’s done right – proper size, quality printing, good framing, correct installation – it completely transforms a space in a way that smaller art just can’t. I’m literally looking at the 48×32 Yosemite print in my living room right now while I’m writing this and it still makes me happy three years later, so that’s gotta count for something.



